Happy Christmas to all my readers. I have almost got out of the habit of blogging, so much though that although with camera in pocket I continually forgot to use it. So you will have to be satisfied with pictures from Turkey, which 15 months after the event I have just sorted out. Blogs will be somewhat different and less frequent than the weekly issue of old, but I will still write about U3A activities but from now on it will be limited to those of personal interest.
The Bosphorus of old
JIVE
I always declared this my favourite U3A group but I had not been for ages when I went back this last Wednesday. Never have I seen so many there (40?) about half were old friends but the rest were new faces. It has always been the best balanced group by gender but recently I am told men have been known to outnumber women, the sexes were equal in number on this occasion. But the sense of fun and good humour remains the group's biggest attraction. It was good to see compere Gerwyn back in lively form after such a severe heart illness. He had arranged a sandwich buffet lunch and the whole downstairs area of the Monkey Cafe was full of chatter of jive weekends in Painton, New Year celebrations at the Ice House, bowling painting and Cruising.
Unlike most groups there is no popular demand for an extended Christmas break so the next meetings are Wednesday 21 December and 4 Jan. As I have said many times before this is the best group of all in terms of its welcome and ability to welcome and integrate new members most of whom go on to join other groups.
Obviously it is a very pleasant way to keep physically fit but I find it taxing my memory as well, remembering three moves in series is not something I find as easy as I used to. So it keeps you on your toes in more ways than one!
Ezgi never could stop dancing in Amasra, or Joan
Asian Turkey North Coast fishing port Amasra
POLITICS and CITIZENSHIP
Old timer Eileen Jones of the walking club set the quotations and left us to identify by whom and discus. We split into two groups to identify quotes which led us from recent past politics back to the war and over the centuries to the Bible and back. It was an enjoyable exercise.
But the meeting made me aware of the sad news from Marjorie Vanston another old timer who lost her sight in one eye following an operation for cateract which obviously went horribly wrong in Bridgend. A bitter fate for such an avid reader and continuing lively mind. Eileen had obviously tried her quiz out on in advance on a hospital visit to Marjorie, who by all accounts put the rest of us to shame.
As I was leaving office I was amazed to see her take on both the Research and the Scrabble groups as convenor in addition to her Welsh group. Another reminder of the debt we owe to our oldest members. If I survive as long I just hope to retain their mental acuity. I send Marjorie our best wishes, no doubt someone will relay them for me for she belongs to a generation that can be forgiven for not joining the computer age.
Many many years ago returning from Manchester, then the home of British computing, I remember discussing the proposition that it would be better for the world if they had never been invented, for we insiders were privileged to foresee what computers and automation would do to to the prospects of employment in industry. We didn't foresee what a boost they would give to the new gambling industries, producing ever more rapid, lucrative, seemingly 'risk-free', financial transactions.
GARDENING
The talk was given by Stephen Hopkins, Specialist Parks Development Officer for Swansea, who earlier on had a similar role in the Ebbw Vale Garden Festival, a site originally devoid of top soil. So massive was his target he recounted scouring the country by helicopter looking for potential sources of good soil.
Very seldom do I attend Gardening but having bought what Stephen described as a 'Redrow House', one where the builder's main objective was to clear and level the site in the preparation of good foundations, leaving the new owner with a good-for-nothing garden. I have had a nearly 50 year struggle to persuade my heavy blue clay site to grow anything at all. When the first weeds appeared after I dumped the ash from our first coal burning central heating boiler I knew I was on a winning run - trouble was it was due to last 30 years. More recently I have imported tons & tons of sharp sand, which has solved the texture and drainage problems so although friable it is now too sandy. But the down side, which I suspected all along, was the introduction of salt courtesy of 'Bideford', by which sharp sand is known in this area, a few more years of South Wales weather should put paid to that. Problems of fertility were dwarfed by problems of drainage, thanks to Stephen I now realise it is an offence to export the 'surface' water, the only approved solution being to build massive soak-aways. I now live in fear of being sued for flooding Clyne Valley and deflecting blame away from Global Warming!
Another mistake, obviously, was to hire DIY rotavators because according to him they destroy soil quality by homogenising destroying good soil and bad. Except in my case there was no good soil and an even more fundamental problem was very soon evident since the machine refused to dig more than a couple of inches. Manual digging and even double digging is OK but in my experience does nothing but keep you fit, the sort of punishment handed out to King Sisyphus.
Stephen's solution obviously was to bite the bullet, or give up - which ever way you view it - and import 6 inches of topsoil. Interestingly he said that Swansea were now making more compost than they could dispose of and in his case at least they were prepared to deliver it for free in 7 cubic metre lots, which I pictured of as seven large sling bags of the type builder's merchants use to deliver sand in bulk. That obviously is the solution employed by Swansea Parks Department, the only identified downside being the fragments of green plastic in the mix.
Having got your top soil the next stage was to find its PH level, that is find out the extent of acidity or alkalinity of the soil and then grow only things which suit your soil. Over the years I have had little help from such methods and enquired about soil sampling methods, he said to mix a few samples taken across the garden but of soil taken from 3 inches below the surface. In fact he emphasised the importance of root health and interestingly described the Water Table as being the level below which there was no free air so the roots could not breath. Once knowing the PH try to grow only suitable plant types. I need to give up trying to grow Brassicas (although Chinese Pak Choi related varieties are growing well) and root crops, except potatoes which do moderately well except for blight which appears to be inevitable in South Wales, for all these need more lime than my soil has. When I suggested making one sector of the garden soil a different PH to the other he suggested growing root vegetables in pots. I am thinking of diverting the garden to industrial scale strawberry growing, for they threaten to take over anyway! Learning to go with the flow is not easy at my age.
His advice on compost making was very interesting, for every layer of green in the garden waste he suggested adding a sprinkling of soil (to populate the compost with insects, worms and insects) and a little scoopful of artificial fertiliser (Ammonium Sulphate or Ammonium Nitrate), advice perhaps not so popular with the 'organic' sector of the audience, and possibly a little slaked lime. But all composts he viewed simply as soil conditioners but not in themselves the whole secret of a good growing environment, which led him onto fertilisers.
They needed to match the needs of the season, used little and often but not in bulk which will simply be leeched away to over effect the lower layers. He was in favour of gel pellets which release chemicals slowly.
Spring: Phosphate for root growth
Summer: nitrogen for greenery, use Ammonium Sulphate
Late season: Potash for fruit/flower/seed
Fancy living in a cave, no garden
But balloons outside the front door
But to me the most pleasing thought was that leaves made easily the best compost of all, and decomposed quicker if shredded but may take two years in black bags. That idea delighted me so I asked him to persuade my wife who considers dead leaves in the garden an evil to compare with dirt in the house and whisks them away ASAP to the council garbage collectors before I can get my hands on them. His response simple a telling 'I don't do domestics'
YOGA
Christine Bryan runs an excellent class the only one left in our U3A. She is now using the large ground floor room at Hazel Court where there is space for many more members than currently attend the Thursday morning class. Last year whilst operating in the much smaller Exercise Room she lost five regulars in quick succession, four from illness related causes and me turning my attention to my garden. The membership has not yet recovered, she deserves better.
Her current 90 min routine is perfect for anyone who like me aims to remain as flexible as possible (back, waist, shoulders), to improve posture and breathing control and to counteract loss of balance. Two members sit on chairs to ease the more severe challenges. I intend to go regularly at least until the spring sees me turn to landscape and vegetable gardening outdoors.
I would advise others to try. Jive on Wednesday and Yoga on Thursday make an excellent combination. The next class will be 10am 19th January.
Whirling Dervishes, in Konya the heart of Turkey
SPANISH LEARNING GROUP
Goes on to challenge Jive for my support on Wednesday morning. Unfortunately we are now without a tutor as Keith Barry has taken himself off for a long stay in South America, as he always said he would. Unfortunately we don't know when or even if he will return. The small class was determined to continue and took shares in leading the class. Since convenor Christine Broomhall returned from holiday in China she has taken on that tutor role with enthusiasm. Amongst other models we are using Michel Thomas CDs to improve speaking skills and in my case badly needed improvement in pronunciation including not least accentuating the correct syllable. The next class will be 18 January.
Would any member with good command of Spanish who is willing to help tuition please contact Christine Broomhall or Alison Burns convenor for the Spanish Conversation Group.
View of Old Ankara from the Citadel
TRAVEL
There has been a marked increase in attendance since Bob Hughes took over as convenor of this group from Brian Davies. I first up and staggered at getting an audience of 60+ for my talk on two months of touring Southern India last winter, the contrasting states of Karnaktaka (large and little visited) and Goa (tiny but a mass tourist destination). I apologise for the viewing shortcomings resulting from using, as last year, the large TV set for it was not big or high enough for seven rows of audience to see. Bob arranged to use the U3A Digital projector for following Fridays, a far bigger screen and extra height also aiding visibility.
Selimiye Camii, architect Mimar Sinan's masterpiece in Erdine
Last month I felt totally upstaged by a talk by member Ian Smith who specialises on challenging treks and climbing expeditions in the highest mountain regions of the world. He, and his wife, obviously like the challenges of 'living on the edge' and would seem to have done everything except climb to the top of Everest or K2. Joan and I couldn't even match him on Annapurna (Nepal) for he had done the full 14-21 day 'round' when we had done only the most popular half up the Kali Gandarki to Muktinath before retracing our steps back to Pokhara in 14 days. One of the regrets I will carry to the grave is of not aiming at the whole circuit in 1989 for as it turned out we did have just enough time off work and plenty of energy. That trip to Nepal remains the one which pointed us to a new international DIY style of travelling. Today we can't even contemplate Rambling 6-7 miles with Harry Lewis's U3A Group at sea level.
Friday 6th January at 2.15pm should be fascinating, Esther Searle and Owen Lewis sharing the billing, Esther on a visit to The Philipines and Owen Lewis on Yellowstone Park in the USA, one of the world's great wildernesses.
BEGINNERS INTERNET
Last November I inaugurated a course for beginners on four sucessive Saturday mornings in Hazel Court. It was well received. This year Anthony Hughes and I decided to run a similar course each taking the major role for two weeks. It again went well though the attendance of 'learners' was as patchy as last year when the biggest problem was the horrific weather. In a passing comment Anthony asked me 'What are you doing next November?'
I think there will be a repeat but we perhaps need to more careful about the commitment of 'learners', ideally so that we select 12 who will attend throughout.
As last year the 'helpers' (giving one on one assistance) were very dedicated, my only reservation being that having broadcast 450 members looking for help I was left with almost the same set of volunteers as the year before and almost all those perform other roles in Swansea U3A. Maybe the top priority should be convenors, we first need to identify their needs, if any, which are probably outside the scope of the current course.
In the meantime members with a current interest in computing are urged to try Digital Media for Fun a group run by Anthony on alternate Friday mornings.
Gelibolu South Coast of European Turkey
POLITICS
I have rarely felt less optimistic about the outlook for the world economy. I take no pleasure from having long predicted that the way things were headed with country after country opting for austerity there would be a worldwide absence of demand and that we would pull each other down. Austerity as practised first by this government might have worked in tandem if the 25% devaluation of our currency had allowed us to export our way out of debt, but there is now a serious risk that not only has Greece never had a chance of paying its debt off but Italy Spain and even the UK could be doomed to see national debt actually increase thanks to ever lower tax take coupled with higher spending on benefits.
Two Japanese friends persuaded us to to Syria this summer!!
But to me the most depressing thought of all is the lack of political leadership ranging from deadlock in the USA to all the European Countries of which the UK is one, like it or not. At least no-one still blames it all on Gordon, maybe we will remember him one day for World Leadership which galvanised a successful reaction at the time of the collapse of Lehman Brothers in the USA. Why he made such a poor showing as PM is an unexplained mystery to me.
All European countries are fighting for their own nationalistic interests and we are now lined up against even those who are trying to find a common way out. Across Europe, the Arab world and the Middle East (where they are already taking to the streets) there is a great danger of the breakdown of society. We all know who sprang out of youth despair last time and his message was not one of austerity but one of rebuilding and expansion. This taboo subject is well worth re-visiting, Hitler was a truly evil leader but he must have had political skill and foresight to turn Germany around from the most extreme basket case in the world to its urge for territorial domination in just one decade 1929-39.
A much happier reflection and one more appropriate to this piece is to consider the political changes in Turkey started in the same period. The Ottoman Empire in tatters Mustafa Kemal (Ataturk) credited with the game changing military victory over the allies at Gallipoli went on to be political leader in1928 and in the War of Independence drove the British, French. Italians and Greeks out of Turkey before modernising their out of date failing culture. He convert Islamic Ottoman Turkey into modern secular republic, changing the laws, banning the wearing of head-scarves in school and other government employment, and even realigning the unique Turkish alphabet with those of Europe. Anyone interested in the political heritage he built and left should spend one or two days at the picture book tribute to his life in his mausoleum, the Anit Kabir in Ankara.
Our lasting impression of Turkey was one of the universal welcome from the people, rapid progress in building infrastructure - not to be compared with the rate of development of China but entirely beyond the rest of Europe.
Invited to break fast of Ramadam in Istanbul park
No tables left we'll odge up, Bergama (Pergamum) Central Turkey
For any interested there is a blog of the 5 week trip round western Turkey at http://www.istanbul-and-turkey.blogspot.com/
JIVE
I always declared this my favourite U3A group but I had not been for ages when I went back this last Wednesday. Never have I seen so many there (40?) about half were old friends but the rest were new faces. It has always been the best balanced group by gender but recently I am told men have been known to outnumber women, the sexes were equal in number on this occasion. But the sense of fun and good humour remains the group's biggest attraction. It was good to see compere Gerwyn back in lively form after such a severe heart illness. He had arranged a sandwich buffet lunch and the whole downstairs area of the Monkey Cafe was full of chatter of jive weekends in Painton, New Year celebrations at the Ice House, bowling painting and Cruising.
Unlike most groups there is no popular demand for an extended Christmas break so the next meetings are Wednesday 21 December and 4 Jan. As I have said many times before this is the best group of all in terms of its welcome and ability to welcome and integrate new members most of whom go on to join other groups.
Obviously it is a very pleasant way to keep physically fit but I find it taxing my memory as well, remembering three moves in series is not something I find as easy as I used to. So it keeps you on your toes in more ways than one!
POLITICS and CITIZENSHIP
Old timer Eileen Jones of the walking club set the quotations and left us to identify by whom and discus. We split into two groups to identify quotes which led us from recent past politics back to the war and over the centuries to the Bible and back. It was an enjoyable exercise.
But the meeting made me aware of the sad news from Marjorie Vanston another old timer who lost her sight in one eye following an operation for cateract which obviously went horribly wrong in Bridgend. A bitter fate for such an avid reader and continuing lively mind. Eileen had obviously tried her quiz out on in advance on a hospital visit to Marjorie, who by all accounts put the rest of us to shame.
As I was leaving office I was amazed to see her take on both the Research and the Scrabble groups as convenor in addition to her Welsh group. Another reminder of the debt we owe to our oldest members. If I survive as long I just hope to retain their mental acuity. I send Marjorie our best wishes, no doubt someone will relay them for me for she belongs to a generation that can be forgiven for not joining the computer age.
Many many years ago returning from Manchester, then the home of British computing, I remember discussing the proposition that it would be better for the world if they had never been invented, for we insiders were privileged to foresee what computers and automation would do to to the prospects of employment in industry. We didn't foresee what a boost they would give to the new gambling industries, producing ever more rapid, lucrative, seemingly 'risk-free', financial transactions.
GARDENING
The talk was given by Stephen Hopkins, Specialist Parks Development Officer for Swansea, who earlier on had a similar role in the Ebbw Vale Garden Festival, a site originally devoid of top soil. So massive was his target he recounted scouring the country by helicopter looking for potential sources of good soil.
Very seldom do I attend Gardening but having bought what Stephen described as a 'Redrow House', one where the builder's main objective was to clear and level the site in the preparation of good foundations, leaving the new owner with a good-for-nothing garden. I have had a nearly 50 year struggle to persuade my heavy blue clay site to grow anything at all. When the first weeds appeared after I dumped the ash from our first coal burning central heating boiler I knew I was on a winning run - trouble was it was due to last 30 years. More recently I have imported tons & tons of sharp sand, which has solved the texture and drainage problems so although friable it is now too sandy. But the down side, which I suspected all along, was the introduction of salt courtesy of 'Bideford', by which sharp sand is known in this area, a few more years of South Wales weather should put paid to that. Problems of fertility were dwarfed by problems of drainage, thanks to Stephen I now realise it is an offence to export the 'surface' water, the only approved solution being to build massive soak-aways. I now live in fear of being sued for flooding Clyne Valley and deflecting blame away from Global Warming!
Another mistake, obviously, was to hire DIY rotavators because according to him they destroy soil quality by homogenising destroying good soil and bad. Except in my case there was no good soil and an even more fundamental problem was very soon evident since the machine refused to dig more than a couple of inches. Manual digging and even double digging is OK but in my experience does nothing but keep you fit, the sort of punishment handed out to King Sisyphus.
Stephen's solution obviously was to bite the bullet, or give up - which ever way you view it - and import 6 inches of topsoil. Interestingly he said that Swansea were now making more compost than they could dispose of and in his case at least they were prepared to deliver it for free in 7 cubic metre lots, which I pictured of as seven large sling bags of the type builder's merchants use to deliver sand in bulk. That obviously is the solution employed by Swansea Parks Department, the only identified downside being the fragments of green plastic in the mix.
Having got your top soil the next stage was to find its PH level, that is find out the extent of acidity or alkalinity of the soil and then grow only things which suit your soil. Over the years I have had little help from such methods and enquired about soil sampling methods, he said to mix a few samples taken across the garden but of soil taken from 3 inches below the surface. In fact he emphasised the importance of root health and interestingly described the Water Table as being the level below which there was no free air so the roots could not breath. Once knowing the PH try to grow only suitable plant types. I need to give up trying to grow Brassicas (although Chinese Pak Choi related varieties are growing well) and root crops, except potatoes which do moderately well except for blight which appears to be inevitable in South Wales, for all these need more lime than my soil has. When I suggested making one sector of the garden soil a different PH to the other he suggested growing root vegetables in pots. I am thinking of diverting the garden to industrial scale strawberry growing, for they threaten to take over anyway! Learning to go with the flow is not easy at my age.
His advice on compost making was very interesting, for every layer of green in the garden waste he suggested adding a sprinkling of soil (to populate the compost with insects, worms and insects) and a little scoopful of artificial fertiliser (Ammonium Sulphate or Ammonium Nitrate), advice perhaps not so popular with the 'organic' sector of the audience, and possibly a little slaked lime. But all composts he viewed simply as soil conditioners but not in themselves the whole secret of a good growing environment, which led him onto fertilisers.
They needed to match the needs of the season, used little and often but not in bulk which will simply be leeched away to over effect the lower layers. He was in favour of gel pellets which release chemicals slowly.
Spring: Phosphate for root growth
Summer: nitrogen for greenery, use Ammonium Sulphate
Late season: Potash for fruit/flower/seed
But to me the most pleasing thought was that leaves made easily the best compost of all, and decomposed quicker if shredded but may take two years in black bags. That idea delighted me so I asked him to persuade my wife who considers dead leaves in the garden an evil to compare with dirt in the house and whisks them away ASAP to the council garbage collectors before I can get my hands on them. His response simple a telling 'I don't do domestics'
YOGA
Christine Bryan runs an excellent class the only one left in our U3A. She is now using the large ground floor room at Hazel Court where there is space for many more members than currently attend the Thursday morning class. Last year whilst operating in the much smaller Exercise Room she lost five regulars in quick succession, four from illness related causes and me turning my attention to my garden. The membership has not yet recovered, she deserves better.
Her current 90 min routine is perfect for anyone who like me aims to remain as flexible as possible (back, waist, shoulders), to improve posture and breathing control and to counteract loss of balance. Two members sit on chairs to ease the more severe challenges. I intend to go regularly at least until the spring sees me turn to landscape and vegetable gardening outdoors.
I would advise others to try. Jive on Wednesday and Yoga on Thursday make an excellent combination. The next class will be 10am 19th January.
SPANISH LEARNING GROUP
Goes on to challenge Jive for my support on Wednesday morning. Unfortunately we are now without a tutor as Keith Barry has taken himself off for a long stay in South America, as he always said he would. Unfortunately we don't know when or even if he will return. The small class was determined to continue and took shares in leading the class. Since convenor Christine Broomhall returned from holiday in China she has taken on that tutor role with enthusiasm. Amongst other models we are using Michel Thomas CDs to improve speaking skills and in my case badly needed improvement in pronunciation including not least accentuating the correct syllable. The next class will be 18 January.
Would any member with good command of Spanish who is willing to help tuition please contact Christine Broomhall or Alison Burns convenor for the Spanish Conversation Group.
TRAVEL
There has been a marked increase in attendance since Bob Hughes took over as convenor of this group from Brian Davies. I first up and staggered at getting an audience of 60+ for my talk on two months of touring Southern India last winter, the contrasting states of Karnaktaka (large and little visited) and Goa (tiny but a mass tourist destination). I apologise for the viewing shortcomings resulting from using, as last year, the large TV set for it was not big or high enough for seven rows of audience to see. Bob arranged to use the U3A Digital projector for following Fridays, a far bigger screen and extra height also aiding visibility.
Last month I felt totally upstaged by a talk by member Ian Smith who specialises on challenging treks and climbing expeditions in the highest mountain regions of the world. He, and his wife, obviously like the challenges of 'living on the edge' and would seem to have done everything except climb to the top of Everest or K2. Joan and I couldn't even match him on Annapurna (Nepal) for he had done the full 14-21 day 'round' when we had done only the most popular half up the Kali Gandarki to Muktinath before retracing our steps back to Pokhara in 14 days. One of the regrets I will carry to the grave is of not aiming at the whole circuit in 1989 for as it turned out we did have just enough time off work and plenty of energy. That trip to Nepal remains the one which pointed us to a new international DIY style of travelling. Today we can't even contemplate Rambling 6-7 miles with Harry Lewis's U3A Group at sea level.
Friday 6th January at 2.15pm should be fascinating, Esther Searle and Owen Lewis sharing the billing, Esther on a visit to The Philipines and Owen Lewis on Yellowstone Park in the USA, one of the world's great wildernesses.
BEGINNERS INTERNET
Last November I inaugurated a course for beginners on four sucessive Saturday mornings in Hazel Court. It was well received. This year Anthony Hughes and I decided to run a similar course each taking the major role for two weeks. It again went well though the attendance of 'learners' was as patchy as last year when the biggest problem was the horrific weather. In a passing comment Anthony asked me 'What are you doing next November?'
I think there will be a repeat but we perhaps need to more careful about the commitment of 'learners', ideally so that we select 12 who will attend throughout.
As last year the 'helpers' (giving one on one assistance) were very dedicated, my only reservation being that having broadcast 450 members looking for help I was left with almost the same set of volunteers as the year before and almost all those perform other roles in Swansea U3A. Maybe the top priority should be convenors, we first need to identify their needs, if any, which are probably outside the scope of the current course.
In the meantime members with a current interest in computing are urged to try Digital Media for Fun a group run by Anthony on alternate Friday mornings.
POLITICS
I have rarely felt less optimistic about the outlook for the world economy. I take no pleasure from having long predicted that the way things were headed with country after country opting for austerity there would be a worldwide absence of demand and that we would pull each other down. Austerity as practised first by this government might have worked in tandem if the 25% devaluation of our currency had allowed us to export our way out of debt, but there is now a serious risk that not only has Greece never had a chance of paying its debt off but Italy Spain and even the UK could be doomed to see national debt actually increase thanks to ever lower tax take coupled with higher spending on benefits.
Two Japanese friends persuaded us to to Syria this summer!!
Meanwhile top pay soars, greed was never was going to be limited to investment bankers. But we are all supposed to be in this together, if you believe that you'll believe anything. No consolation if you are at the bottom of the pile and without hope let alone material well being, the young, the unemployed, those on short time, those trapped on benefits, or those simply stressed out fearing worse to come.
But to me the most depressing thought of all is the lack of political leadership ranging from deadlock in the USA to all the European Countries of which the UK is one, like it or not. At least no-one still blames it all on Gordon, maybe we will remember him one day for World Leadership which galvanised a successful reaction at the time of the collapse of Lehman Brothers in the USA. Why he made such a poor showing as PM is an unexplained mystery to me.
All European countries are fighting for their own nationalistic interests and we are now lined up against even those who are trying to find a common way out. Across Europe, the Arab world and the Middle East (where they are already taking to the streets) there is a great danger of the breakdown of society. We all know who sprang out of youth despair last time and his message was not one of austerity but one of rebuilding and expansion. This taboo subject is well worth re-visiting, Hitler was a truly evil leader but he must have had political skill and foresight to turn Germany around from the most extreme basket case in the world to its urge for territorial domination in just one decade 1929-39.
A much happier reflection and one more appropriate to this piece is to consider the political changes in Turkey started in the same period. The Ottoman Empire in tatters Mustafa Kemal (Ataturk) credited with the game changing military victory over the allies at Gallipoli went on to be political leader in1928 and in the War of Independence drove the British, French. Italians and Greeks out of Turkey before modernising their out of date failing culture. He convert Islamic Ottoman Turkey into modern secular republic, changing the laws, banning the wearing of head-scarves in school and other government employment, and even realigning the unique Turkish alphabet with those of Europe. Anyone interested in the political heritage he built and left should spend one or two days at the picture book tribute to his life in his mausoleum, the Anit Kabir in Ankara.
Our lasting impression of Turkey was one of the universal welcome from the people, rapid progress in building infrastructure - not to be compared with the rate of development of China but entirely beyond the rest of Europe.
For any interested there is a blog of the 5 week trip round western Turkey at http://www.istanbul-and-turkey.blogspot.com/
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